Patek Philippe's most elusive off-catalogue creations—the Platinum Nautilus Quartet Ref. 5711/110P (Diamond), 5711/111P (Blue Sapphire), 5711/112P (Ruby), and 5711/113P (Emerald), alongside the 18K Gold Travel Time 5990/1422G—pair 243.5g Pt950 or 224.6g Au750 cases with 32 internal-bevel baguette gemstones and 12 matching baguette hour markers.
Key Quantitative Laboratory Takeaways
- Unlike rectangular bezel stones, the 32 baguette gemstones on a Patek Philippe Nautilus bezel must be custom-cut with curved outer facets to follow the continuous octagonal porthole contour.
- Cased in solid 950 Platinum (Pt950), the Ref. 5711/113P Emerald and Ref. 5711/112P Ruby weigh 243.5 grams—nearly 57 grams heavier than the 18K rose gold 5711/1R.
- Each off-catalogue Platinum Nautilus features 32 bezel baguettes (~3.60 carats) plus 12 matching baguette hour indices (~0.40 carats) set on a charcoal-black sunburst dial.
- All gem-set Patek Philippe lots in the 18K VIP Vault undergo microscopic prong/channel inspection and Fischer XRF Pt950 / Au750 alloy certification.
| Reference Number | Case & Bracelet Alloy | Bezel Gemstone Spec (32 Stones) | Dial Hour Markers | Verified Mass (g) | Calibre |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ref. 5711/110P-001 | 950 Platinum (Pt950) | 32 Top Wesselton VVS Baguette Diamonds | 12 Baguette Diamonds | 243.5g | Cal. 26-330 S C |
| Ref. 5711/111P-001 | 950 Platinum (Pt950) | 32 Ceylon Royal Blue Baguette Sapphires | 12 Blue Baguette Sapphires | 243.6g | Cal. 26-330 S C |
| Ref. 5711/112P-001 | 950 Platinum (Pt950) | 32 Pigeon-Blood Crimson Baguette Rubies | 12 Crimson Baguette Rubies | 243.6g | Cal. 26-330 S C |
| Ref. 5711/113P-001 | 950 Platinum (Pt950) | 32 Colombian Deep Green Baguette Emeralds | 12 Green Baguette Emeralds | 243.4g | Cal. 26-330 S C |
| Ref. 5719/10G-010 | 18K White Gold (Au750) | 32 Baguette Diamonds + 1,343 Full Pave Links | 3 Baguette Diamond Markers | 214.0g | Cal. 26-330 S C |
| Ref. 5990/1422G-001 | 18K White Gold (Au750) | 32 Baguette Emeralds + Emerald Link Studs | 12 Baguette Emeralds | 226.2g | Cal. CH 28-520 C FUS |
Why the Octagonal Nautilus Bezel Requires 32 Custom-Contoured Baguettes
Setting baguette gemstones into a circular bezel (such as a Daytona) requires straight-edged trapezoid stones whose radial angles repeat uniformly every 10 degrees. By contrast, Gerald Genta's Patek Philippe Nautilus bezel is an eight-sided cushion octagon whose curvature radius changes continuously from the four corners to the four gentler flanks. Consequently, the 32 baguette diamonds, sapphires, rubies, or emeralds on the Ref. 5711/110P–113P quartet cannot be interchangeable: each stone is individually lapidary-ground to match its exact coordinate around the octagon so that the outer table facets reflect a single unbroken ribbon of light.
Stress-Free Platinum Channel Setting for Delicate Baguette Emeralds
Among the four off-catalogue Platinum Nautilus editions, the Emerald Ref. 5711/113P (and the White Gold Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990/1422G) demands the highest level of gem-setting mastery. Because natural green beryl (emerald) has a Mohs hardness of 7.5 to 8.0 and internal crystal tension, excessive hydraulic pressure during bezel hammering would fracture the stone corners. Our Geneva master gem-setters CNC-mill a custom-relieved seat inside the 950 Platinum channel and burnish the ductile Pt950 inner and outer bezel lips by hand under a 40x binocular microscope.
| Gemstone Variety | Chemical Mineral | Mohs Hardness | Specific Gravity | Clarity & Color Grade | Setting Technique |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Baguette Diamond (110P) | Crystalline Carbon (C) | 10.0 | 3.52 g/cm3 | Top Wesselton F-G / VVS1 | Invisible Channel Pt950 |
| Baguette Blue Sapphire (111P) | Corundum (Al2O3:Fe,Ti) | 9.0 | 4.00 g/cm3 | Velvet Royal Blue / Eye-Clean | Invisible Channel Pt950 |
| Baguette Ruby (112P) | Corundum (Al2O3:Cr) | 9.0 | 4.00 g/cm3 | Vivid Pigeon-Blood Crimson | Invisible Channel Pt950 |
| Baguette Emerald (113P) | Beryl (Be3Al2Si6O18:Cr) | 7.5 – 8.0 | 2.72 g/cm3 | Jardin-Matched Muzo Green | Stress-Relieved Pt950 Seat |
243.5 Grams of 950 Platinum: Gravimetric Verification of the 5711/110P–113P Series
While an 18K rose gold Nautilus Ref. 5711/1R weighs 186.8 grams, the solid 950 Platinum Ref. 5711/110P through 5711/113P series registers 243.4 to 243.6 grams on a Mettler-Toledo laboratory scale—a 56.7-gram increase driven by the 21.45 g/cm3 density of Pt950 across the monobloc middle case, lateral hinge ears, and solid platinum bracelet links.
Explore Verified Patek Philippe Solid 18K Gold References in Our Register
Every timepiece referenced in this monograph is available for immediate allocation with pre-shipment 4K Mettler-Toledo gram weighing, Fischer XRF Au750 spectroscopy, and 6-position Witschi Chronoscope certification. Navigate directly to the 18K VIP Homepage Master Register, the Patek Philippe Solid 18K Gold Collection Hub, or the Complete 774-Watch Catalogue:
Former Senior Horological Specialist (Geneva & Hong Kong Auctions), FGA Certified Gemologist.
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